I traveled all the way to the Christmas markets in Belgium and Paris only to find the best one was a few hours North of London. Knaresborough is a tiny village a short train ride away from Harrogate. If you want real olde English, head here.
The main square was lined with true handmade goods. So many craft fairs and stalls say they sell handmade goods, but they’re not local. They may be handmade, but they were made in a Chinese sweat shop. Most everything here was handmade by a pair of English hands in a village living room or kitchen. There were stalls selling spicey mulled wines, creamy chocolates, port truffles.
A Victorian wind up organ with figurines that pretended to play instruments like a giant Swiss clock played Christmas tunes. That was until the bells started jingling…
And the feet started tapping…
And the ribbons started swaying…
And out came the Morris dancers.
First the men and then the women dancing traditional English dances with bells on their toes and ribbon hoops in their hands. The men wear flowered hats (I thought some looked quite macho, don’t you?) and the women ribbons in their hair. Traditionally, they dance around a May pole in – you guessed it – May, but these Morris dancers will dance any time of year in what’s quickly becoming a lost art in this country.
Watch the performances while eating a take away steaming hot pie from the butcher at the end of the street. (Robinsons at 46, Market Place HG5 8AG) For breakfast, I tried a meat and potato pie and a sausage roll. For lunch, a Cornish pasty and a pork pie with picallili. They taste wonderful and you can’t beat the value for money since they’re about one pound each. These are the tastiest meat pies I’ve eaten in England.
Fancy a bargain? Find Christmas presents in the charity shops around the market square. The area is quite affluent and there’s an abundance of good will, so the shops have lots to choose from and there’s some amazing bargains. I picked up two lovely drinking glasses for 25p each and a commemorative china cup edged in gold for the Queen Mother’s 90th birthday for two pounds.
If you have more money to spend, hop on the train for a short ride to Harrogate, a very elegant affluent town. The dress shops feature beautifully tailored clothes, sumptuous jewelery, and uniquely crafted furniture. Be sure to stop at the famous tea shop, Betty’s and taste one of their famous Fat Rascals.
Around the corner, there’s an Oxfam charity shop. Prices are higher here, but venture upstairs and find a huge collection of vintage postcards, stamps, and books on sale. I couldn’t resist an old Mrs. Beaton’s 1961 English cookbook which I’ll be putting to the test over Christmas.
The people are so friendly too. It’s a change form London where no one says hello or good morning. Up here in Northern England, you’ll soon be fed up of saying "Morning" and your face will hurt from smiling pleasantly.
The only drawback is the train ticket to Harrogate almost cost the same as the journey to Paris. Seriously. Let this be a warning – plan ahead and try not to travel on Friday evenings as this is the busiest time. Even so, it was well worth the journey and my most favourite Christmas market yet.
p.s. – Harrogate’s Christmas lights hanging in the trees stay lit all year. What a great city!
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Contents
Letters from London
History of Russian Dolls
Babushka Christmas Stocking
Christmas Bloom Stocking
A Rebel Christmas Stocking